Anemometer Mast - Material and Mounting?

They are similar but the are not as heavy duty as the ones from Radio Shack. There is some pics on this page.

http://www.chucksweather.com/weatherstation.php

Chuck

Dan, the RadioShack masts are crimped slightl undersize at one end. They slip into each other quite well. I DID install one self drilling sheet metal screw where they slip together to prevent any chance of the top mast accidently turning. As far as the tripod mount, I drilled thru the roof and installed 3/8" bolts, putting Large fender washers and nuts on the inside of roof. This part was a 2 man job. One on the roof, and one in the attic. The tripod has one leg that can be unbolted from the mount, allowing you to use the other two legs as hinges, and tip the entire mast down to roof level for maintenance. I really liked that feature. 1 bolt and I can lay it down.

One thing that hasn’t been mentioned in this thread is the need to GROUND your mast if you use a metal mast. I used a bare 8 gauge aluminum wire fastened to the tripot and then ran to the existing grount rod next to my electric meter. In my case it was a very straight run. Which is a good idea. In my younger years, as a roofers helper, I have seen MANY TV antennas grounded to aluminum/steel guttering, and then the guttering grounded to a rod. I know of one instance where this turned out to be a VERY BAD idea. It seems that lightning did hit one mans TV antenna. It followed the guttering all the way around the house, setting it on fire in several places before finally finding a parh to the ground. There were puddles of aluminum all over the ground where the gutters used to be.

Hi again Dan,

If the 2 poles are exactly of the same dimensions and cannot slide one into the other to make a join, then a very simple method is to use a wooden rod (Broom handle section and gaffer tape[if needs be] to very tight fit) of the same internal diam of the metal poles…if you use a sufficient overlap of say 8 to 10" or longer, of wood in each metal section (the metal sections still butt up against one another) and fix with a screw through the metal in each section, it should work (and look) fine.

Additionally, you may not need to use all metal to get the full height of the mast, in that perhaps, a decent sized post (3 x 3 or 4 x 4) say 6 - 8ft in (length)height could be used as the first section to be attached to the side of your planter; plus you could attach the metal section of mast to the wooden post at an easily accessible position, front or back, for easy removal and maintenance. In that way you could easily get a fairly rigid mast to the overall height you require and have added benefits of getting at the anemometer fairly easily when needed. :wink:

Gentlemen,

Many thanks for the great feedback. I called a local Radio Shack. They said that they had eight of the 10’ masts (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062034&cp=2032057.2032187.2032189.2032207&parentPage=family) in stock. This looks like a very good solution because 1) they are in stock locally and 2) would give me the right height with 4’ left over for mounting on the side of my wall, and 3) they are pretty inexpensive($44 for two 10’ masts).

Apparently Radio Shack also has several types of mounting brackets that I could use. As you can see in this pic, the tubing is designed to be a wedge fit:

As Bill pointed out, a simple sheet metal screw would ensure the fittings didn’t slip.

I like Baggins idea about a wooden post. If I can’t get the necessary height, I can attach a wooden post to the wall and then the mast to wooden post. It turns out that I have a nice nice 4X6 that can cut down too.

If the tube is completely hollow, I might try running the cable inside the mast for protection. Bill, is that feasible?

Many thanks and regards,

Dan.

Yes, the cable can be slid down the center of the pole(s). The only thing you would need to watch is where it enters the pole from the top. The weight of the cable, along with a small amount of movement could eventually cut the cable. A little bit of tape would eliminate this potential problem. Also don’t forget to put some di-electric grease on all of your electrical connections, including battery terminals. This will prevent any future corrosion.
Bill

Bill,

Much grass! (I speak French too!)

It always amazes me that any time you try a new venture, there all sorts of little “gotchas” that can bite you in the tush. I’m keep a list. (And checkin’ it twice!)

Thanks,

Dan.

As far as taking the cable through the pole…remember if you do this to make some spare cable available at the base of the pole (say a couple of metres…sorry 6ft or so) looped up so that when you drop the pole for maintenance on the whirly bit, that you will then have a comfortable length of free cable to move the whirly bit away from the pole somewhat…

Personally and from experiences that I’ve had it was better for the anemometer cable to be on the outside of the pole and held in situ with tie-wraps at about 1ft intervals…visually not quite so appealing but better for other reasons… :wink:

I was just thinking about when I first set my Anemometer up. When installing the wind direction vane, I recall something about making sure that it points North when the ‘dots’ were aligned. I did a little fiddling with it so that with everything aligned, and TRUE(Not magnetic) North showing on my console, the vane pointed exactly toward my mounting pole. This makes for VERY easy re-installation if I ever have to remove it from the pole. Also, I used a tripod mount that allows rotating the pole prior to tightening everything down. To further simplify correct positioning I looped a long piece of kite string once around the horizontal mounting shaft, and the Arrow. This kept it pointing to true North at all times. I carried the console up on the roof with me. All I had to do then was to rotate the pole until the console read directly north, and tighten the mounting screws. This took several minutes as mine only updates every 9-14 seconds. Then I pulled the kite string off, and all was well! This method worked quite well. I hope this helps.
Bill

I’ll agree with that. Something else to remember is that wherever you DO use zip ties, make sure to get UV resistant ones. They are usually black.

Mine are zip tied too, I put a cap on top of the pole :slight_smile:

It’s easier with the VP because you have the arm that offsets the anemometer from the pole, get that pointing to true N and you’re done.

Was your pole cold? :lol:

I’ll go away now… :slight_smile:

Careful, we could get into real trouble with this one :lol:

Baggins,

Yes, we colonials do speak metric! Not well of course, but we try. :smiley:

Actually, I thought about that. I wasn’t sure how much but a couple of meters (correct spelling 8) ) sounds about right.

Regards,

Dan.

p.s. I used to watch Monty Python religiously!

Niko,

Noob Alert! Sorry for being a being a bit dense, but could you explain this a further?

Thanks,

Dan.

The arm that the anemometer is mounted on should point to true N.


Niko,

Cool, thanks.

Dan.

Yea, the Davis comes with the arrow(wind vane) already attached. Mine wasn’t. I had to “calibrate” it to North. :?

Oh Ye Honourable friends. Greetings. Doth thy iron or aluminium pole, fade to grey, suite your countenance and surely be of utmost quality and good taste. Verrily, it would seem that thou beggeth to differ in the language of our forebears and the spelling of words thereof. The distance in location has truly brought about changes in the way thy speaketh the mother tongue. Go in Peace and Pleasantries and enjoy the victuals which the new land brings…

Baggins,

In honour of your loquacious and erudite reply, I can only say… “Whoa! It’s gettin’ deep in here!” :rofl:

Regards,

Dan.